Tartiflette, Raclette and another wild camp

Got the telecabine to the top of the Brevent and did 2 routes  near the col but was too busy/noisy/misty/cold - Jenny led Le quatrième tiers 5a and I led Rève de cornichon 5c.

Headed down the jeep track and did La tartiflette D+5c, Jenny leading the first 5a pitch (a bit sparse).

Wild camped in same spot as last time but couldn't get water. Jenny went an hour down a ravine to no avail and I found no feed for the chamois' wallow. Luckily 2 guys possibly up to no good appeared further down the track in a 4x4 and after I chased them for a few yards seemed pleased to give me a new 1.5l bottle of evian.

Next day did La Raclette TD-6b (the 5c/A0 crux goes at 6b free).

All in all 2 fun routes among bilberries, pine trees, caterpillars and ants.

Had plâte du jour at Hotel Le Buet which was comfortingly exactly like a refuge dinner. 

Arete Sud Aiguille du Moine D+5c

Montenvers train up to Mer de  Glace then 4 1/2 hours up 2 glaciers and ladder systems to Refuge Couvercle (smack in the heart of the massif).

Up at 05:00 for a 13hr day from the hut.  Small glacier approach and bergschrund then 8 'pitches'.

Leisurely descent back to Montenvers after another night in the hut. 

Words and pics insufficient.

..but for the record:

1. Mer de Glace approach

2. Dent du Requin to Aiguille du Grépon

7. North Face of The Grandes Jorasses, Dent du Géant, Mt Blanc 

8. Jenny vs bergschrund 

9. 10 mins from dinner after 4 hrs of down climbing and multiple abseils from the summit

14. Sussing crossing of river in middle of Mer de Glace

15. Manhole

Chalets Loriaz 2020m

For soup and coffee. Had a nice chat with Marina and Swedish dude.

Cold windy rainy (relatively).

Mt Buet 2 day wildcamp

Made this up using the map and didn't know if full circuit would work as middle section had no paths marked on map. Route seemed popular with runners. 

From campsite up through Les Granges (buying it) and Val de Tré les Eaux (exercising caution on snow-bridges over water courses) to camp at 2600m on Col de la Terrasse in a thunder storm. Saw a Bearded Vulture.  Water bed puddle under the tent made for a damp night.

Traversed under Pointe a Corbeaux with views down Lac du Vieux Émosson to climb le Cheval Blanc from Col du Vieux. 

Traversed crumbling Crête de la Montagne des Eves and equally crumbling and chained Arête du Buet to Mt Buet summit. Then down to Refuge Pierre à Bérard for coffee and soup.

Then walked down the river to restaurant for Raclette - massive chunk of cheese grilling itself (and us) on a metal thing full of charcoal; and a plate of meats - 'do you like to see the desert menu?' - 'nope,  get us a doggy bag.'

Vallorcine and Jenny's first multipitchb sport lead

Sport crag 10 mins walk from campsite.

Le Plantigrade magnésophage 5c and Jenny led Retour aux ours 4c.

Oh and you get free tickets for that train and the bus for the duration of your stay when you book onto any campsite in the Chamonix valley. 

Le Gateau de Riz D5c

Telecabine to Les Grandes Montets, chatted to Giles  (go Giles, send it). Several guided parties heading for Petite Aiguille Verte (guides managing to ignore their paying clients - value for money?).

Picked our way across the dry Glacier d'Argentière to the refuge. One café au lait and we were residing rather than hitting and quitting.

Found out after that I had taken 5c variant on pitch 4 (relief after feeling stretched on what I thought was 5b). Bailed on last 5b pitch to avoid late for dinner shame (bummer cos it was a sweet lay-back up the summit block).

Massive dinner with the Swiss after accepting offers of 7th helping of la soupe. Shaken to sleep by climbing party being helivacced onto the roof.

Arête Cosmiques AD3

4 hrs from toe of ridge including queueing.

Pics 1 & 3 the scary descent ridge. 

Pics 4 & 5 back along the ridge to Mt Blanc.

Slings & one purple cam.

Loaf then run

Ayaz, haven't run for bout 3 months, me left plantar still wrecks.

Lune Rouge - Mont Blanc

Crakoukass D+6a

Up all the pointy bits. Fun on the belays with 6 Italians chasing us, one with Tourette's.