Isis

If my second had been watching my back instead of taking pics of it I wouldn't have this series. (She took 9 altogether).

Photo's credit Jenny iPhone.

Amzkhssan Wall

Chuck and Cups topping out.

Tarikit

25m high, looked like some easy new routing potential, we put 6 up with the hardest move HS 4a, still a nice evening/warm down crag (about 10km west of the Kasbah).

The Aktil Undercut

Worth a click to go large.

Photo: Chuck B

Tizi Gzaouine Gorge

All the rocks in the landscape have been tidied into little rows like this, everywhere you go.

Kasbah Tizourgane

This Kasbah rocks, great hospitality, close to the crags and they are used to accommodating climbers.

Morocco - the Anti-Atlas

10 days, 5 days walking up the 3 highest summits in the High Atlas and 3 days climbing trad routes in the Anti-Atlas [2 days driving from/to Marrakech]. Hope the following gives a flavour and some useful info.

Ksar Rock from the top of Lower Eagle Crag.

We strung two 4 star routes together to finish on the top of Ksar Rock.

Afantinzar - Lower Eagle Crag

Donkey Serenade, a 300 metre 10 pitch severe was a poor choice in retrospect. Felt very easy for the grade despite my best efforts to zuzz it up a bit. We did see the Eagles though and a couple of other large birds of prey and wild boar on the descent. A nice day out but wish we'd gone for Bonington's VS a bit further along.

Sadly Ben Wintringham died in an abseiling accident in the area today. He had put up and promoted a lot of the routes across the Anti-Atlas. If you played out in the 80's you will probably remember his company Winter Gear before he sold it to Wild Country. He designed the Quasar mountain tent, interesting thread here.

Sidi M'Zal

Tizi Gzaouine crag 30m single pitch, ideal for starters.

Correct PPE at all times.

This pic credit Jenny [iPhone].

The Guide

There's a Cicerone at half the price but all you get is a vague line on a crag photo. Steve Broadbent's guide is much more comprehensive giving route/pitch/belay info and the same quality of extras you'd expect from modern guides in this country. Available from Needle Sports here.

We found the road maps in the guide adequate but if you want to get adventurous then try Michelin 742 here.

En route to the Anti-Atlas from the High Atlas

That's not me by the way.

Ras 4083m and Timezguida 4089m

Ras is the twin peak in the far distance.

What rimes with thistle?

Morocco's 3 highest summits, Toubkal right under clag, Timezguida foreground, Ras the twin peak back left.

Some unnecessary scrambling..

.. some necessary.

A staple.

Toubkal 4167m

Like Skye with altitude, oh and the odd crashed plane here and there. We went up the quiet North Cwm North Col route via Tibherine 4010m and descended the tourist route via Toubkal West 4030m.

The Guide, The Map

The guide, from Needle Sports here.

The 1:40,000 map from Cordee here.

Imlil 1740m

View from terrace at Dar Adrar guesthouse. Mohamed is a qualified and licenced Mountain Guide. We found the guidebook and map detailed above adequate for our trip but Mohamed told us that he could arrange mules to make food drops at the Tizis [mountain passes] for parties planning a multi-day ridge traverse.

When in Rome

Marrakesh

A Riad inside the Medina at MAD996 is luxury for £72 for two people including breakfast and parking. We ate in the central square but soon beat a retreat back to the roof terrace as the persistence of the shop-keepers is quite stressful.

It is legal to be on the road without lights when travelling at less than 20kmh. You will quickly become aware of this as the silhouettes of mopeds, bikes, donkeys, hand-carts, skateboarders and pedestrians loom or rather swarm across the windscreen. Whilst waiting to turn left across traffic, other road users waited behind me [as per UK etiquette]  and some drew alongside, port and starboard, pipping horns until there was enough of a gang to psyche the opposition to give way then we all made a bid for freedom in a lemming-like exodus. At first it seemed chaotic but that is a mere sensory response, the logic seemed to be the same as on the piste in a winter resort, concern yourself with what is in front of you and let those behind do the same.

Manchester - Marrakech, easyjet £375 for 2 seats, 3 hour flight, arrived 16:40 local time [they're an hour behind in summer]. 20kg each [you can pre-book more], we averaged less than 17kg including double ropes, rack, harnesses, helmets and La Sportiva Nepal boots (which I wore but Jenny packed hers. If you book well in advance and are flexible with dates you can get flights for less than £80 for 2 peop's.

Sixt Car Hire pre-booked online MAD3,980 for 10 days (£30/day). Get diesel for off-road torsion as some crags are accessed by rough sump-threatening tracks [fine in a 2x2 if you go ginger and don't get all macho]. When you collect the car at the airport they need a card that will allow the pre-authorisation of MAD9,000 [£740] as collateral. This does not debit your account and is cancelled immediately the car is returned in acceptable condition.

Get a map of Marrakech at the airport.