Irony HVS 5a
Pulling over the overhang above the gnarled peg on Irony was entertaining and I was pleased to read of the almost de rigeur use of the knee. Everyone's body-geometry is different, the ratio of forearm to upper arm, or thigh to calf, for example, so that when you factor in flexibility and strength in different parts of the body it becomes pointless advising someone on a move. My solution is to belay well back out of earshot and leave them to it. Here's Jenny as she works up to the crux.
Photo: Hair Bear, which doesn't show the considerable exposure, she is surmounting the overhang at the top of the crag (right of his right earhole in next pic).
Hair Bear leading pitch 2.
Over-exposed photo: Jenny
Back at ground zero, Louis leading 1st pitch.